Almost nobody outside France has heard of this valley, which is much of the appeal. Six resorts share a pass at the head of the Maurienne, including Val Cenis, Valfréjus, La Norma, Bonneval sur Arc, Bessans and Aussois.

Bonneval sur Arc at the very top is a listed village of stone and slate, closer to a museum piece than a resort. Valfréjus sits among fir trees and gets early snow. The others are small, French and inexpensive in a way the Tarentaise over the mountain has not been for decades.

It is unusually good for beginners and improvers. Val Cenis has one of the longest green runs in the Alps, which lets a first week skier come down from the summit on their own terms, and there is plenty of red mileage for people who have found their feet.

Gîtes, apartments and small hotels cost a fraction of what you pay an hour north. There are cross country trails and snowshoe routes across the plateau, and restaurants where the menu comes in French only.