The largest glacier ski area in Austria, half an hour from Innsbruck, at the head of a long valley of farming villages that keep their ordinary life while the glacier above runs from autumn into early summer.

That makes this the place to come in November or May, when the rest of Austria is between seasons. The skiing is reliable, high and sunny, with a great deal of intermediate cruising and excellent beginner areas at mid mountain.

Strong skiers get the Wilde Grub'n, a long unpisted descent, and good touring off the top. There is a panorama platform at the summit for the view across to the Dolomites. Guesthouses and half board hotels line the valley with a ski bus between them. Staying in Innsbruck and commuting out is a genuine option here, and a good one.