Grossarl calls itself the valley of alpine huts, and there are more working mountain farms here than hotels. It and Dorfgastein sit in neighbouring Salzburg valleys, linked over the ridge, both farming villages first and resorts second.

The skiing is sunny, quiet and mostly intermediate with good beginner areas and short queues, on the large Ski amadé pass, which opens a great deal more terrain if you have a car.

Half board guesthouses and farm accommodation are cheap and genuinely warm. This is a quiet family week rather than a lively one, with hut lunches reached only on skis, a night toboggan run, and the Gastein thermal baths fifteen minutes away.